Improvement in stays for seams of boots and shoes



G. STRIBLEY. Stay for Seams of Boots and Shoes.

Patented May 7,1878.

FIGHi.

N.PETER5. FHOTd-LITHOGRAPHER WASHINGTON D 04 UNITE STATES PATENT OEEIcE.

GEORGE STRIBLEY, OF CINCINNATI, oHIo IMPROVEMENT IN STAYS FOR SEAM S OFBOOTS AND SHOES.

Specification forming part of Letters Patent N 0. 203,300, dated May 7,1878; application filed October 16, 1876.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, GEORGE STRIBLEY, of the city of Cincinnati, in thecounty of Hamilton and State of Ohio, have invented certain new anduseful Improvements in the Manufacture of Boots and Shoes, of which thefollowing is a specification:

In the manufacture of boots and shoes there are seams occurring in theuppers, or in the lining thereof, which require a binding-strip,technically known as a stay. This stay is a narrow strip, usually of thesame material as the article it is sewed on. It is laid over the outsideof the seam, and heretofore has been sewed fast to the leather or liningto which it is to be attached by means of two parallel independent rowsof stitching.

I have found by experience that the shuttlethread of these seamsfrequently cuts through the upper and the stay, and instead of servingthe purpose for which it was intended-via, that of a binder tostrengthen and unite the two parts joined by the seam-it greatly injuresthe article to which it is attached.

My invention consists in uniting the stay to the article to which it isto be attached by a double row of stitching,united at the backside ofthe seam by a single shuttle-thread.

It is by this novel mode of securing this stay, as hereinafter moreparticularly set forth, that the threads at the back of the seam are sodisposed as to make it impossible for any strain upon the seam or stayto cause the shuttlethreads to cut through the leather. The reasons forthis fact will be more fully set forth hereinafter. I thus obtain a veryserviceable and durable article of stay.

For the purpose of describing my invention, I have selected for examplethe back-stay of a .ladys gaiter.

In the accompanying drawings, Figure 1 is a perspective view, showingthe two back pieces stitched together. Fig. 2 represents the seam ofthese two pieces pressed down flatly, so as to conceal the stitching.Fig. 3 shows the back-stay stitched to the back pieces andthe threemembers secured to the heel of a gaiter. Fig. 4 is a perspective View ofthe inner side of theback or heel of the gaiter. Fig. 5 is a transversesection of the back and its attached stay.

Of the above illustrations, Figs. 4 and 5 are drawn on an enlargedscale.

A and A are the quarters of the gaiter, secured together with stitchingB. 0 indicates the back-stay, whose edges are bent around cords D D andbrought flat against the iback of the stay. These edges extendsufficiently far toward the middle of the stay to admit of a row ofstitching, c or a, passing through the stay at the inside of each beadd. These rows of stitching are parallel.

E is the shuttle-thread passing across the edges a a of the uppers A A,and looking into each stitch. of both the parallel rows of stitching 00. The heel of the gaiter is indicated by the letter F.

In the drawings, the two parallel rows of stitching c 0 made by theneedle are shown perfectly black, that they may be more readilydistinguishedfrom the shuttle-thread E, which is not shaded. Preparatoryto putting on the stay the edges of the uppers or portions of the liningto be united are placed together, as shown in Fig. 1, and stitchedtogether by the single seam B. The parts A A are then opened, and theiredges on a separated, bent over, and pressed flat against the respectivepiece A or A, of which each is a part. (See all figures except Fig.1.)The stay 0 is provided at each side-with a bead containing,respectively, the cords D D. A double-stitch machine, provided with anovel and appropriate guide, is now employed, and a double seam is madeat the lines 0 0, parallel with the edges of the stay, and outside ofthe edges a a, and through the outside of the stay, the folded underedge of the same, and one of the parts A A, the single lines ofstitching being locked by a single shuttle-thread, E. The edges a a 1are thus securely bound down in position. As

the shuttle-thread covers an unusually wide portion of leather, and asthere is an extra thickness of leather between it and the out side ofthe gaiterviz., first, the edges a a, and then the parts AA there is noopportunity for the shuttle-thread to cut through the leather. I thusobtain an extra compact, ex-

tra durable, and elegant article of manufacture.

In many styles of shoes and boots the stay is preferably made withoutthe cord D within the bead, and frequently the bead itself is omitted,in which case the edge of the stay is not folded in, and the plain edgeof the stay takes the place of the folded-under edge before A boot orshoe inwhich the parts of the upper are united by a line of stitching,as described, and the seam then covered by a staypiece, which is securedto the upper by lines of stitches c 0 on the outside and the diagonallocking-stitches E on the inside, substantially as and for the purposesspecified.

GEO. STRIBLEY.

Attest O. WALTON, Jr., C. SCHAMMEL.

